8 posts tagged “black and white photo”
Why I use Color Film. Color films records most all the color of the spectrum, nearly all colors can be reproduced by mixing only a few basic or primary colors. Color films are made with three color-sensitive layers, each of which records the wave lengths of lights in a different third of the color spectrum. Colors negative film is processed to be the opposite in colors and density of the original scene; then it is printed onto a sheet of sensitized paper to make a positive color print.
This is why I shoot color films to Print out my Black and White Photos the Classic way. Color films gives more details in my prints. The colors remain true and the tones are richer. I use the actual color photo as a guide when my Hand Tinting my Black and White Prints.
This is a Color Photo the Classic way.
This a Black and White Photo the Classic way, delivered inside my darkroom.
This is a Hand Tinted Black and White Photo the Classic way, Never computer aided in any way. Photo Art is Original and signed.
My Photo Art is Original. No one does it better. I can use either a Color or Black and
White negative to create my Photo Art the Classic way.
This is a Color Photo Born Inside a Camera.
I use the rules of third as guide to determine where I place my colors.
This is a Side view of a Photograph.
| A,3=Fore Ground Top. | B,3=Top Middle Ground. | C,3=Top Back Ground. |
| B,2=Fore Ground Middle | B,2=Mid Ground Middle. | C,2=Back Ground Middle. |
| A,1=Fore Ground Bottom. | B,1=Middle Ground Bottom. | C,1=Back Ground Bottom. |
This is a Black and White Print Delivered inside my Darkroom.
This is Frontal view of a Photograph or scene.
| X,3=Top Left. | Y,3=Top Middle. | Z,3=Top Right. |
| X,2Middle Left. | Y,2=Mid Middle | Z,2=Middle Right |
| X,1=Bottom Left. | Y,1=Bottom Middle. | Z,1=Bottom Right. |
This is Hand Tinted Photo the Classic way.
This Technique can be applied to any Media. The colors lead the viewers eye to focus on certain areas of the Final Photo Art. I use only color film to create my Black and White Photo Art. Color films have three layers and Black and White Film have only two layers. I find that color films record the true mood of each scene as it really is. Reds are red, blues are blue, and greens are green. Black and white films records the tones and not the hues and the chroma of each scene as it exist. I use my color prints to aide in my color balancing process. This is the most exciting aspect of my 2 Zone Technique. I use Zone "A" to compose my Color Photo Art inside the camera. I then use Zone "B" to develop my Black and White Print.
I have a simple formula that I created to achieve my color balance and color contrast of each final print. I use the actual Color Photo as a guide when I Hand Tint my Black and White Photo the Classic way. I use up to 27 points when I color my prints.
The foreground = A, middle = B, back = C. The bottom = 1, middle = 2, and top = 3. I can place my hues of color in one the cubes to create unimaginable illusions of Grandeur.
History should be recorded on film. There were many inventions in the 19th Century.. The car was invented and massed produced as a means of a new and efficient mode of transportation, which rendered the horse and buggy obsolete. (Co2). The incandescent light was discovered replacing candles and kerosene lamps. Our world today is a glow with many types of lighting, i.e. xenon, led, neon, led, and many more. The light bulb as we know it will become extinct. The conveyor belt was implemented in manufacturing to speed up and increase production (The late Ray Kroch). Most of all of our goods today are products of automation and robotics. The discovery of Dynamite gave way to new methods moving mass amounts of land. We are now in the nuclear age, we can now remove countries from the face of the earth with the push of a Button.
The camera was born and it became know as Photography, it changed the way we record visual images. Of all the inventions Photography had the greatest impact in our lives. We have computers which allow us to transfer large amounts of data to any place in the world. Most internet traffic consist of transferring photo images. Iphones,ipods, black berries,cable, faxes, lap tops, gps, cell phones,the list goes on. What is the speed of information ? Does any body know ?
Digital Art is here to stay, Classic Photography has taken a back seat for many reasons. Digital Art has change the Art world like no other, affording any one with a digital camera and a computer a chance to take photos with little knowledge. Digital Photo Art is very easy to create with the proper soft ware and a little practice.
There has never been an era that so many photos taken and recorded in such a short period of time.
Classic Hand Tinted Photo Art can be processed using Archive methods of the past will last for generations. Digital images lack zone A (subject to film) and zone B (film to print). Of all the inventions, some will never change, the wheel, and Classic Photography, the laws of Physics makes this impossible to replace them. I developed a 2 Zone Technique to create my Black and White Photo Art the Classic way. Never computer aided in any way.
How is it possible to decide in advance what tone an important area will have in the final Photograph. It is quite simple if you know that for any area of uniform brightness, a reflected-light meter will recommend an exposure that will render that brightness in the middle gray in the Black and White Photo.
Two areas often metered when calculating exposures this way are skin tones and shadow areas. An exposure for a portrait is often based on the skin tone of the subject. The other area frequently metered as a basis for exposure is the darkest area in which the photographer wants to keep a full sense of texture and detail.
One object that can be metered is the palm of your hand. Another useful substitution reading is from a gray test card, it reflects 18 % of the light falling on it and a white side that reflects 90 % of the light. A gray card is often used to balance the light in a studio setup or when copying an object such as a painting. It is also useful in color photography as a standard against which the color balance of a print can be matched.
With our digital camera all of the above want apply. Most digital cameras are automated and advanced that you simply point and shoot. Choosing your f/stops or apertures are not important in obtaining a quality print or a rendition of any scene. The photographer hands are tied and creativity takes a back seat.
I will never shoot a digital camera due to those restraints and a lack of negative, which I will need to create my Hand Tinted Black and White photo Art. I love to manipulate my fully manual camera to interpret each scene. The unaided eye will give you unlimited freedom to allow you to capture each scene as you like. Roll film will some day return to our main stream because the burden and lack of freedom of our digital cameras. The rules of taking photos the classic way still apply in the Art world. Technology has become a stumbling block for our Art world, but true artist don't need any computer aides.
How is it possible to decide in advance what tone an important area will have in the final Photograph. It is quite simple if you know that for any area of uniform brightness, a reflected-light meter will recommend an exposure that will render that brightness in the middle gray in the Black and White Photo.
Two areas often metered when calculating exposures this way are skin tones and shadow areas. An exposure for a portrait is often based on the skin tone of the subject. The other area frequently metered as a basis for exposure is the darkest area in which the photographer wants to keep a full sense of texture and detail.
One object that can be metered is the palm of your hand. Another useful substitution reading is from a gray test card, it reflects 18 % of the light falling on it and a white side that reflects 90 % of the light. A gray card is often used to balance the light in a studio setup or when copying an object such as a painting. It is also useful in color photography as a standard against which the color balance of a print can be matched.
With our digital camera all of the above want apply. Most digital cameras are automated and advanced that you simply point and shoot. Choosing your f/stops or apertures are not important in obtaining a quality print or a rendition of any scene. The photographer hands are tied and creativity takes a back seat.
I will never shoot a digital camera due to those restraints and a lack of negative, which I will need to create my Hand Tinted Black and White photo Art. I love to manipulate my fully manual camera to interpret each scene. The unaided eye will give you unlimited freedom to allow you to capture each scene as you like. Roll film will some day return to our main stream because the burden and lack of freedom of our digital cameras. The rules of taking photos the classic way still apply in the Art world. Technology has become a stumbling block for our Art world, but true artist don't need any computer aides.
How is it possible to decide in advance what tone an important area will have in the final Photograph. It is quite simple if you know that for any area of uniform brightness, a reflected-light meter will recommend an exposure that will render that brightness in the middle gray in the Black and White Photo.
Two areas often metered when calculating exposures this way are skin tones and shadow areas. An exposure for a portrait is often based on the skin tone of the subject. The other area frequently metered as a basis for exposure is the darkest area in which the photographer wants to keep a full sense of texture and detail.
One object that can be metered is the palm of your hand. Another useful substitution reading is from a gray test card, it reflects 18 % of the light falling on it and a white side that reflects 90 % of the light. A gray card is often used to balance the light in a studio setup or when copying an object such as a painting. It is also useful in color photography as a standard against which the color balance of a print can be matched.
With our digital camera all of the above want apply. Most digital cameras are automated and advanced that you simply point and shoot. Choosing your f/stops or apertures are not important in obtaining a quality print or a rendition of any scene. The photographer hands are tied and creativity takes a back seat.
I will never shoot a digital camera due to those restraints and a lack of negative, which I will need to create my Hand Tinted Black and White photo Art. I love to manipulate my fully manual camera to interpret each scene. The unaided eye will give you unlimited freedom to allow you to capture each scene as you like. Roll film will some day return to our main stream because the burden and lack of freedom of our digital cameras. The rules of taking photos the classic way still apply in the Art world. Technology has become a stumbling block for our Art world, but true artist don't need any computer aides.
**I use color film to produce my Hand Tinted Black and White Photos. Color Photographs begins as Black-and-White negatives. Color film consist of three layers of emulsion, each layer basically the same in Black-and-White film, but responding to only one-third of the color spectrum. The top layer responds to Blue light, the middle layer to green light and the bottom layer to red light. When this film is exposed to color light and then developed, the result is a multilayered Black-and-white negative.
**Those who used Kodak for color film in the early 70's remember the old Blue dot flash. Kodak had their film produced on the Blue side of the color spectrum (blue balanced). Kodak had on the top layer of their emulsion more Blue color couplers than other brands. Kodak film responded very well to cool colors. Their film produced very cool colors
**Afga film had their film produced more on the Red side of the color spectrum (red balanced). Afga had on the bottom layer of their emulsion more Red color couplers than other brands. Their film produce very warm and rich colors.
**Fuji film had their film produced more on the Green side of the color spectrum (Green balanced). Fuji had more color couplers on the middle layers than other brands. They produced vivid green colors, cool in nature.
Most Photographers don't understand why they choose a particular brand of film. I choose my film based on my on interpretation of each scene, this allows me to manipulate Zone "B".
** When I Hand Tint my Black and White Photos, I can exploit the mood and feeling of each Photo based on the actual scene. I use Black and White photo paper to create my Photo Art.
I have a color Photo to guide and help in placement of the colors that I apply to each Photo. This give me the freedom to choose each color and areas which I decide to highlight. This is where I implement my "2 Zone Technique" to reveal the often hidden details that you will see only on the color print. This is where the fun begins. Feel free to try for your self the next time you want to create a Black and White Photo try using color film. After all color film is merely Black and White film with two additional layers added to the film emulsion. Have fun, and good Luck.
Any one interested in learning how to Print Black and white Photos the classic way, I will be more than willing to help. I wish more people would learn this new Technique. It's not latin, but I am only the one that can speak what I preach. It does me no good if others can't learn and understand this wonderful language of Hand Tinting Black and White Photos.I will be the next Ansel Adams or George Eastman Kodak