2 posts tagged “hand tint”

This is a Color Photo Born Inside  a Camera.
 
 I use the rules of third  as guide to determine where I place my colors.
 This is a Side view of a Photograph.
 

This is Frontal view of a Photograph or scene.

This Technique can be applied to any Media. The colors lead the viewers eye to focus on certain areas of the Final Photo Art.  I use only color film to create my Black and White Photo Art. Color films have three layers and Black and White Film have only two layers. I find that color films record the true mood of each scene as it really is. Reds are red, blues are blue, and greens are green. Black and white films records the tones and not the hues and the chroma of each scene as it exist. I use my color prints to aide in my color balancing process. This is the most exciting aspect of my 2 Zone Technique. I use Zone "A" to compose my Color Photo Art inside the camera. I then use Zone "B" to develop my Black and White Print. 
  I have a simple formula that I created to achieve my color balance and color contrast of each final print. I use the actual Color Photo as a guide when I Hand Tint my Black and White Photo the Classic way. I use up to 27 points when I color my prints.
 The foreground = A, middle = B, back = C. The bottom = 1, middle = 2, and top = 3. I can place my hues of color in one the cubes to create unimaginable illusions of Grandeur.

**When part of a picture is sharp and part out of focus (or soft), a viewer
looks first at the sharply focus area. What exactly is sharpness and how
much can it be controlled ?
**How sharp an image apears depends on the size of the circles of confusion,
the tiny, overlapping circles formed by the lens as it focuses the image.
The circles are seldom actually seen as disc although occasionally, when
bright points of light are photographed, individual circles do appear. The
smaller the circles, the less they overlap and the sharper the image appears
to be.
**In theory, a lens can focus the image of objects at only one distance at a
time and objects at other distances will be more or less out of focus. Several
factors control the extent of the depth of field, the f-stop used, the focal
lenght of the lens and the lens to subject disance.
**The relationship is a simple mathematical one: the f-stop number equals
the focal length of the lens divided by the aperture diameter. If the focal
length of the lens is 100mm and the actual diameter of the aperture is 50mm,
the f-stop is number is 2.
** I shoot all of my Black and White Photos between f-3.5 and f-11. This
gives me the needed depth of field to bring the middle field in focus. When I
print my Black and White Prints I set my enlarger accordingly. This gives me
added depth and contrast in zone B. All of my black and white prints are in zone
IV to zone VII, I prefer middle grays oppose to typically print a Black and White
print. When I Hand Tint shades of middle grays the colors seem to float or
levitate. The color are more vivid and intense.
**My 2 Zone Technique works only when using roll film the Classic way. This is the
reason why digital Photogrpahy has it limitations. With digital cameras, the
photographers imagination is held hostage to technology at hand. I will never
shoot a digital camera for this very reason. I want complete control of what my
camera sees.
**I become an interpreter of light when I capture images that I see. My camera
can't make adjustments as required to capture a scene as I would like. I use no
computer soft ware to create my Black and White Photo Art.